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The Monitor
Your monitor is
your most important peripheral! Of all the components within a computer
system, it's the one that has the most impact on your health. And yet,
people spend huge amounts of money on the best possible computer equipment
but choose the monitor from what is left in the pocket. When buying or
building a PC, the monitor should first on the list!
When the first IBM
PC debuted, it featured a 4-color colour graphics adapter and a TV-like
colour monitor, which was terrible to look at and, by today's standards,
impossible to work with. Today's monitors have vertical refresh rates in
excess of 120Hz, and multiple horizontal scanning frequencies, popularised
with the NEC MultiSync monitors.
Construction
The first thing you
should know about monitors is how they are build. By comparison, monitors
are the dinosaurs of a computer system, as their basic technology has been
invented over a hundred years ago when tubes were the only way to produce
signals. Even though tubes have long been replaced by transistors, CRT
monitors still have a vacuum tube inside. There are other types of
monitors, but more about that later. Although CRT (Cathode Ray
Tube) Monitor technology is very old,
the CRT monitor is still the most commonly used one, because it is very
mature and reliable, and no resources need to be spent any more on
extensive research. Although the technology surrounding the CRT has
improved greatly over the years, the CRTs used in today's monitors and TVs
would still be recognised by its German inventor Ferdinand Braun, who
first experimented with CRTs in 1897.
The basis of the
all CRTs is an electron gun, boiling off electrons, which 'shoot' as beams
towards the front of the tube where the shadow mask is housed. A magnetic
deflection coil assembly is used to scan the beam across the shadow mask,
hitting a phosphorised coating inside the tube face. The phosphor lights
up and - voila - visible light.

Modern colour
monitors are a bit more complex, in that they have three beams (red,
green, blue). That means that a different kind of phosphorised coating is
needed, so each beam can hit its corresponding colour. Although the
electron beams are 'shot' and scanned with high accuracy, most CRTs
monitors use the shadow mask to make sure no beam hits a non-corresponding
coloured phosphor dot (Triniton tubes, for example, have longer guns and
do not need a shadow mask).
Interlacing
By applying raster
scanning (i.e. generating the dots on the screen line by line), the beams
are scanned in a zigzag across the screen. Since the phosphor can only
light up for a very brief moment, this happens several times per second.
The process is called 'refreshing' the screen, the more often per second
the better. I recommend a
refresh rate of at least 75 Hz, while 85Hz and above are exceptionally
crisp. Using 60Hz is insane in fluorescent lighting, and an interlaced
refresh rate of 48Hz is horrible. The electron gun can redraw the screen
in two modes:
-
interlaced
mode
-
non-interlaced
mode
In non-interlaced
mode, the screen is redrawn from the top to the bottom in a single pass.
Monitors that operate in interlaced mode paint the screen in two passes.
During the first pass the odd number of lines are drawn, while the even
numbered lines are drawn during the second pass. In either mode, the time
to redraw the screen is identical. However, non-interlace monitors produce
a more stable picture and are more expensive. For the sake of your eyes,
choose a non-interlace monitor!

Thank God the days
when we had to but up with interlacing and low refresh rates are over.
Today's monitors are all capable of producing at least 75Hz in
non-interlaced mode, but do not be mistaken by mere advertising. Make sure
that the monitor you buy supports this at the resolution you intend to use
it.
Resolution
Resolution is the
number of individual addressable pixels that the monitor is capable of
displaying. A pixel (Picture Element) is the smallest unit that can be
displayed on the screen.
The higher the
possible maximum resolution, the more you can see on your screen. Having
said that, most monitors in the current market can produce watchable
resolutions of at least 800 x 600 pixels. But that was not always the
case. As will all technologies, CRT tubes have come a long way to become
what they are now. Here are the four standards in order of their
appearance on the market:
-
CGA (Colour Graphics
Adapter) = 640 x 200 pixels
-
EGA (Enhanced Graphics
Adapter) = 640 x 350 pixels
-
VGA (Video Graphics
Adapter) = 640 x 480 pixels
-
SVGA
(Super Video Graphics
Adapter) = 800 x 600 pixels and
higher

If you're looking
at a 14" or 15" monitor, choose a resolution of 800 x 600 pixels, I even
enjoy a resolution of 1024 x 768, 16bit colour, and a refresh rate of 85
Hz on my 15" monitor. Just make sure you have a high enough refresh rate
and a crisp picture. Note
that the monitor’s maximum resolution also depends on the capabilities of
the video
card.
Always chose your
video card and your monitor together. The best monitor is worthless
without a decent video graphics card and vice versa. The table below shows
the number of colours and the refresh rates of a Voodoo3 3000 card at
their respective resolutions. It gives you an example of what your monitor
should be capable of.
| Resolution |
Number of Colours |
Refresh Rate (Hz) |
| 320 x 200 |
256, 65k |
70, 85 |
| 320 x 240 |
256, 65k |
60, 70, 75, 85 |
| 400 x 300 |
256, 65k |
60, 70, 75, 85 |
| 512 x 384 |
256, 65k |
60, 70, 75, 85 |
| 640 x 200 |
16 |
70 |
| 640 x 350 |
16 |
70 |
| 640 x 400 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
70, 85 |
| 640 x 480 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 72, 75, 85, 100, 120, 140, 160 |
| 720 x 480 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 72, 85 |
| 720 x 567 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
72, 100 |
| 800 x 600 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 72, 75, 85, 100, 120, 140, 160 |
| 920 x 760 |
256, 65k |
60, 75, 85 |
| 1024 x 768 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 70, 75, 85, 100, 120 |
| 1152 x 864 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 70, 75, 85, 100, 120 |
| 1280 x 960 |
256, 65k |
60, 75, 85 |
| 1280 x 1024 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 75, 85, 100 |
| 1600 x 1024 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 76, 85 |
| 1600 x 1200 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 100 |
| 1792 x 1344 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 75 |
| 1856 x 1392 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 75 |
| 1920 x 1080 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 72, 75,
85 |
| 1920 x 1200 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 76, 85 |
| 1920 x 1440 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60, 75 |
| 2046 x 1536 |
256, 65k, 16.7M |
60,
75 |
Colour
Depth
Colour depth is the
amount of colours that can be displayed. For simplicity I'll start with a
two colour monitor (i.e. two intensities - TTL - Transistor Transistor
Logic).
Let's say your
screen resolution was 640 pixels horizontally and 200 pixels vertically.
640 x 200 = 128,000 pixels. If we make use of 128,000 bits of video
memory, where each location might be a 1 if a pixel is to be on, and a 0
if the pixel is to be off, then these 128,000 bits in the video memory
contain a bit map of whatever you should be seeing on the
screen.
 0 = off /
1 = on
Now let's imagine a
256 colour display. Each colour has its own 8 bit maps, each holding its
own set of information.
 0 =
off / 1 = on
For colour depth,
monitors are completely analogue, while video cards do their best to
provide a wide spectrum of digital colour depths. A good setting would be
24bit colour, where the monitor displays 8 bits per colour (256 different
"shades" of red, blue, and green), giving 16.7 million colours. With all
those information about each individual pixel held in the graphics card's
memory, it is easy to understand why a higher colour depth on a high
resolution requires a lot of memory (see graphics
card section).
Dot
Pitch
On a monochrome
screen you need not worry about the dot pitch as there is only one basic
colour, broken down in shades. But as I mentioned before, colour monitors
need to provide the three basic colours (Red, Green, Blue) in order for
the corresponding beam to light it up. The problem is that the three
colours must not touch. But in order to get a crisp picture, they should
be as close together as possible. Each set of red, green, blue dots make
up one pixel, the distance of the dots is known as the dot
pitch.

When the dot pitch
is smaller, the characters and graphics appear tighter and sharper to the
eye. Most monitors these days have a dot pitch of 0.28mm or smaller. If
you have the necessary small change, do your eyes a favour and get
yourself a monitor with a dot pitch of 0.26mm.
Power
Saving
Most modern monitor
go into its energy saving mode if you exceed the monitor's operating
limits, such as the maximum resolution or the horizontal and vertical
frequency refresh rates. When this monitor is used with a Green or EPA
Energy Star PC, or a PC with a screen blanking software following the VESA
Display Power Management Signalling (DPMS) protocol, the monitor can
conserve significant energy by reducing power consumption during periods
of non-use. When the PC goes into the energy saving mode, the monitor will
go into a suspended operation state, indicated by the Power LED light.
After an extended period in the suspended mode, the monitor will usually
enter a semi-OFF mode to conserve more energy. When you awaken your PC by
hitting a key or moving the mouse, the monitor will also awaken to its
normal operating mode, indicated by the green Power LED light. By
following these conventions, the power consumption can be reduced to
something like 5 Watts, which is lower than the consumption of your
television.
Other
things to look for
-
Anti-glare
coating. Similar to the coating on high-quality camera and binocular
lenses, this is identified by its surface that reflects purple light
only, not green or yellow or white. You will pay a hefty premium for
this "professional" look though.
-
Digital
controls. Popular controls include on-screen (which are quite nice)
and a slew of well-labeled buttons under the viewing area. Most monitors
have digital controls these days.
The monitor should
be your baby. If you get the right one, it can last 7 years or more
(meaning four computer generations) and still be nice. So spend that
little extra, get that 17" or 19" monitor with the best features, and
admire it for years to come. If you take care of your monitor, it will
take care of you, especially your eyes! It will outlast any other
component in your PC and will be the main link to the Internet and
anything else you do on your computer. Do not try to save money by buying a cheap monitor! Your
monitor will outlast your computer system by many years during which it
will have substantial impact on your eyes. So be good to it.
The
Monitor Connector
 |
| Pin |
Separate Sync |
| 1 |
Red |
| 2 |
Green |
| 3 |
Blue |
| 4 |
Ground |
| 5 |
Self-Test |
| 6 |
Red Ground |
| 7 |
Green Ground |
| 8 |
Blue Ground |
| 9 |
NC |
| 10 |
Ground |
| 11 |
Ground |
| 12 |
SDA |
| 13 |
Hori.Sync |
| 14 |
Vert.Sync |
| 15 |
SCL | |
The
connector for an IBM compatible monitor is typically a 15pin D-Type
connector. Depending on your own monitor, not all of these pins might
actually be in use.
Important
Precautions
Because your
monitor interacts with you like no other part of your computer, it is
important to observe some basic rules:
-
Do not
open the monitor! There are no user serviceable components inside. There are
Dangerous High Voltages inside, even when the power is OFF. Contact
your dealer if the monitor is not operating properly. Keep children
from dropping or pushing objects into the monitor's cabinet openings.
Some internal parts carry hazardous voltages.
-
During a
lightning storm or when the monitor is to be left unattended for an
extended period of time, unplug it from the wall outlet.
-
Do not
bring magnetic devices such as magnets or motors near the picture
tube.
-
Do not
allow anything to rest upon or roll over the power cord, and do not
place the monitor where the power cord is subject to damage.
-
Do not use
this monitor near water such as near a bathtub, washbowl, kitchen sink,
laundry tub, in a wet basement, or near a swimming pool.
-
Never
block the bottom ventilation slots by placing the monitor on a bed,
sofa, etc.
-
Never
place the monitor in a built-in enclosure unless proper ventilation is
provided.
-
Never
cover the openings of the monitor with cloth or other material.
-
Never
place the monitor near or over a radiator or heat source.
-
Always use
a slightly damp (not wet) cloth when you clean your monitor. Do not use
an aerosol directly on the picture tube because 'overspray' may cause
electrical shock.
-
Always
unplug the monitor before cleaning the face of the picture tube.
-
Last
but not least - and probably most importantly: Place your monitor
ergonomically!

Some more
Tips
-
If you
have an energy star rated monitor, make sure it is plugged directly into
the power socket (and leave the power socked switched on, unless you go
on holiday or something). Most ATX systems don't provide power output
for monitors any more, but older AT systems still do. Energy star rated
monitors don't like being switched off any more but switch themselves
off when the computer sends the signal. So do your monitor a favour and
leave it plugged in, it can take care of itself.
-
Take the
time to calibrate
your monitor properly. Uncalibrated monitors can distort colours and
shades. If you want to produce professional quality work you need to
have accurate screen representation.
-
If you
leave your computer running unattended for long periods, use a screen
saver. Screen savers not only protect your work from envy eyes but most
importantly protect the screen from burning out.
-
Download a
monitor checker to test and calibrate your monitor frequently. Monitor
checkers are usually free of charge. Most up market graphics cards even
provide their own test utilities.
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