Input / Output & Peripherals
For starters,
input/output is the computers equivalent to our sight, hearing, speech,
etc., simple enough. But computers are not as sophisticated as humans and
the input/output processes of computers are a lot more pedestrian.
Strictly speaking, most devices listed on this page do not really belong
into the frame of 'Build your own PC', but since there is more to building
a modern computer than putting it's intestines together, I am listing some
brief information about popular input/output peripherals as
well.
Keyboards
There is not much
to say about keyboards. The most important thing to watch out for is the
connector. If you build an ATX system, you'll need a keyboard with a PS/2
connector, if you build an AT system, you'll need one with a DIN
connector. Or you can get yourself an adapter.
Most new keyboards
you come across these days have a nice non-click touch and feel and are as
ergonomic as possible, hence eliminating the need for a wrist pad.
You can still get click keyboards
though if you prefer to "hear" your own stokes, but I would not recommend
them, they will only drive you crazy. The difference between click and
non-click keyboards is their design. Click keyboards are mechanical,
whereas non-click keyboards use soft rubber membranes to close
contact.
If you like
ergonomic designs, have a lookout for a genuine economic keyboard, but the
fully ergonomic shape is difficult to get used to and unless you can
touch-type you will only get confused. I always prefer a straight
one.
There are also a
lot of keyboards out there with fancy programmable buttons and add-ons. At
the end of the day it really depends on your own personal taste. If you go
for the plain and simple type, make sure you don't pay more than £10.00 or
£15.00. Depending on the market and where you buy, you can get them even
cheaper than that.
Pointers
Pointers, such as
mice, trackballs or touch pads, come in all sorts of different shapes and
designs. As with keyboards, on of the most important things to look out
for is the type of connector. ATX systems and almost all newer ATs want a
PS/2 connector, anything older, up to the actual IBM PS/2, needs a serial
type connector. If you have the choice, always go for PS/2, especially if
you've got an internal modem. Modems are serial devices, and an internal
modem might request the same interrupt than your mouse, hence causing a
conflict, which, in best case, slows down your connection.
A standard mouse
uses a ball inside the housing at the bottom to represent movement. Two
rollers rest against the surface of the ball, one for the X axis and one
for the Y axis. The X axis detects the movements for left and right, the Y
axis the movement for up and down. As the ball moves, the rollers for each
axis rotate turning a wheel that is attached to the end of each roller. As
the wheel turns according to the movement of the mouse, an LED
(Light Emitting
Diode) shines at a pair of photo
transistors at the other side of the wheel. Because the wheel has small
slots in it, the light appears to blink as it shines through the slots.
The photo transistors use this 'code' to read the turning of the wheel and
convert it into binary code. Other types of mouse pointers use
potentiometers and capacitors to detect the movement, but the
opto-mechanical approach seems to be the most common one these
days.
In all cases the
pointer is used to move the cursor around the screen. There are a variety
of pointers on the market and it is entirely a matter of preference
whether you decide to buy a conventional mouse a trackball, a touch pad or
something completely out of this world. Just as long as you are happy with the device. Be aware of
the impact a wrong design can have on your health though. The bigger the
device, the more strained will be your wrist, so make sure your pointer
fits the size of your hand and is easy to maneuver.
Whichever supplier
you favour for your decision, basically all mice work in the same way. You
can get a standard mouse from as low as £5.00 or £10.00.
One good tip is to
go for a mouse with a wheel, such as the Microsoft IntelliMouse or the
Genius NetMouse Pro. The wheel enables the user to quickly zoom in and out
or scroll up and down a page in a browser in order to speed up operations.
Well worth a consideration and only a little more expensive than
conventional mice. Most pointer manufacturers have now adopted the middle
wheel or scroll buttons as standard.
A completely new approach to mouse
technology has recently been awarded with great success. Microsoft's
IntelliMouse Explorer is the first generation of a completely new mouse
breed. Microsoft have done away with the traditional ball and implemented
an optical sensor which scans the surface of the desktop at a rate of 1500
times per second. A digital Signal Processor compares the tiny changes of
the scanned images and translates them into cursor movement on the screen.
Using a sensor instead of a ball means that the IntelliMouse Explorer is
the first mouse without any moving parts. No more cleaning, no more
worrying about breadcrumbs on the desktop and good bye mouse mat.
Additionally, Microsoft have implemented five programmable buttons
(including the now obligatory wheel) and a neon-glowing underbelly.
The IntelliMouse Explorer is a
major breakthrough in mouse technology and will no doubt revolutionise
your desktop.
Speakers
Computer speakers
differ from conventional speakers only in two ways: they are normally self
amplified and magnetically shielded. Depending on the power of your sound
card it might be possible for you to get some half decent sound out of
non-amplified speakers, but the "On" switch really makes all the
difference. Most speakers can take standard AC power supplies and have
separate volume and tone controls. Others come with a power connector that
plugs into your PSU or monitor.
Some monitors offer
build in speakers - just like TVs, but if you want some real hi-fi power,
chances are you are going to spend another £15.00 or £20.00 for a decent
pair of speakers. If you have a sound card with quadraphonic capabilities
you need to fork out over £50.00 for a decent four-point subwoofer sound
system, the result, however, is really breathtaking.
Joysticks
There are two main
types of joysticks available:
-
digital
joysticks
-
analogue
joysticks
Since joysticks are
mostly used for game play, it really depends on the type of games that you
are interested it. Digital joysticks behave rather like the keyboard
would, in that the movement that is controlled is rather rapid than
smooth. You go left, right, up and down bit by bit, where every bit of
movement is as big (or small) as the other. Analogue joysticks behave
rather differently in that they are essentially X/Y controllers, where
every axis can be controlled variably. This makes analogue joysticks much
smoother for games where fine control is important.
The actual movement
of the joystick is is controlled in much the same way that some mouse
pointers use. The actual stick extends into a metal shaft with two metal
yokes reading the movement of each axis for a 90 degrees angle, rather
like a cross. The yokes have pivots at the end that allow them to swing
freely back and forth. The metal shaft is also pivoted where it enters the
base, and when you move the stick in your hand, the other end that sits in
the housing moves in the opposite direction. As the shaft moves from end
to end, the potentiometers at the end of each yoke take a precise reading
of the movement and convert it into binary signals. Digital joysticks
simply have switches, rather than yokes and potentiometers.
You might remember
potentiometers from the time you used to play with your electric train or
racing track. Potentiometers are variable resistors and the amount of
current that is let though is directed by the amount of movement that is
detected. In a joystick, each potentiometer is connected to a capacitor.
When the joystick is moved into one direction, the potentiometer turns and
the resistance within the capacitor increases. When the joystick is moved
into the other direction, the resistance within the capacitor decreases.
When the resistance increases, the capacitor takes longer to discharge,
and when the resistance decreases, the capacitor discharges faster. The
time the capacitors need to discharge is measured by the PC, which uses
the times between the successive discharges to determine the position of
the joystick and so the degree and direction of its movement.
Basic joysticks are
available for the price of a standard mouse pointer, but if you're into
heavy game play, you're want something like a force feedback joystick. I
admit I am not into games that much, but I have always been very happy
with my Gravis Game Pad. I prefer game pads to joysticks because they
offer more controls and are much smaller, i.e. easier to
handle.
Digital Cameras
Basically, digital
cameras are not that much different than conventional cameras. Both expose
light sensitive materials to light and both use the same exposing
techniques. But whereas conventional cameras use light sensitive film for
the exposure, digital cameras use CCD (Charge
Coupled Device). Within the digital camera the CCD sits in the same
place where the film is in conventional cameras, exposing thousands of
light sensitive pixels to the light. Each pixel converts the received
information (i.e. colour, intensity, etc.) into an analogue electrical
signal which is converted into binary by the ADC (Analogue to Digital
Converter). Very much in the same way
that the DAC on your graphics card converts digital information into
analogue. The resolution
(i.e. quality) of the stored picture depends largely on the amount of
pixels on the CCD.
After the ADC has
converted the analogue information into digital, the DSP (Digital Signal
Processor) enhances the contrast and
detail of the image and sends it to the camera's storage medium in
compressed format. Storage usually takes place on CF (Compact Flash)
cards, which are of the same type than the ones used in palmtops and
handheld PCs. Depending on the capacity of the CF, the digital camera can
store up to dozens of images which later can be uploaded to a computer for
further processing or printing.
Major factors to
consider when buying a digital camera are:
-
Price
(naturally)
-
resolution
-
the delay
between shots
-
type and
capacity of the CF card
-
zoom
capabilities
-
size of the
camera
-
ease of
use
-
any extras like
taking 'rapid shots'
-
included
software packages
If you are into
photography, you will probably already own a photo editing suite like
Paint Shop Pro or Adobe Photoshop. Which package you use in the end is not
as important as you being able to make proper use of it. Most photo suites
are capable of delivering quite astounding features and
effects.
I have been asked
many, many times what I think of digital cameras, so here's my piece of
advice for you:
If you're a
'Polaroid' kind of person who needs pictures done quickly, of if you need
your images in digital format (i.e. for the Web, multimedia presentations,
etc.), then a digital camera is probably just what you want. They take
good quality pictures and are not even expensive any more. Just as long as
you are aware that, with digital cameras more than with anything else, you
get what you pay for. So don't be too tight with your purse. If you're
really into photography and want high quality output, there is still
nothing better out there as the good old trusted Single Lens Reflex. Safe
you money and get a good scanner instead, they are much cheaper and
produce generally better digital input.
Microphones
There is not that
much to say about PC microphones. They are essentially exactly the same
kind of microphones than any other you can buy. The recording quality
depends more on the quality of your sound card than on the microphone
itself. Depending whether you have a stronger or a weaker soundcard, you
might need a microphone with a higher impedance. There are some
microphones available that feature their own little amplifier, which is
powered by a lithium battery. When making any kind of recording, make sure
that the background noise of your environment (i.e. your living room) is
as low as possible. Especially if you are making telephone calls over the
Internet or are in a video/audio conference. Audio signals transmitted
over the Internet are not as good by far than what you are used to from
your telephone.
I recommend you buy
a microphone though. Internet phone calls are getting more and more
common, and if, like me, you have relatives abroad, chatting away over the
Internet will not stretch your purse anywhere near an international
telephone call.
Scanners
Unmistakably,
scanners are input devices. Images are scanned in and can be processed by
the computer, may it be in form of graphics or text documents which can be
read directly into a word processor. The first flatbed scanners used
complex mirror and lens arrangements, but improvements in technology have
made scanner constructions a lot simpler and cheaper.
Scanners are not that much different than digital cameras, in
that both use light sensitive pixels to read the image. The digital camera
exposes the pixel plate to the object to be photographed, the scanner uses
its own light source in order to achieve and exposure. Also, as with
digital cameras, the maximum resolution and colour depth of scanners
depend on the amount of light sensitive elements used for scanning. A
scanner with 600 light sensor elements will scan at a maximum of 600dpi
resolution, which the scanning software can further enhance.
When you decide to
buy a scanner, ease of use and the software features should play as much
of a role as image quality. The expansion of the World Wide Web and
desktop publishing have made the scanner more common, even indispensable.
Today's mid range scanners put the high end scanner of yesterday to shame,
and come in at very reasonable prices. Most scanners these days are
flatbed devices, don't buy handheld scanners or printer add-ons, they are
inferior in quality and comparatively expensive. All flatbed scanners are
basically just a rectangular plastic box with glass on the top and a
reading slider inside. The quality of a scanner depends on its maximum
resolution and colour depth.
Colour
Depth
Colour depth is
measured by how many layers of each of the three primary colours (red,
green, blue) the scanner can read. It is exactly the same principle as
monitors use to output colours. A 24 bit scanner, for example, will scan
each of its primary colours at 8 bits, that is 256 levels. 256 levels of
each colour equals 16.7 million combinations of colour. That's pretty
accurate, and if a 24 bit scanner could actually attain 8 bits at each
colour, they would produce extremely high quality images. The problem is
that they only get about the first six bits of each colour exactly right.
There is a lot of data to be recorded, and in the attempt to process it
all, some data is lost, therefore the image quality, especially in the
highlights, suffers.
A 30 or 36 bit
scanner records 10 or 12 bits per colour. If the last two don't come in so
well, so what? That still leaves 8 to 10 bits per colour. 30 bit scanners
are what the 24 bit scanners should be. In theory, the more bits, the
better. However, image quality varies tremendously, so not all 36 bit
scanners are equal in quality. These days even the cheapest of scanners
offer 36 bit and, unless you really need 100% accuracy, they do just fine.
Mine was £65.00 and it does exactly what it's supposed to
do.
Resolution
A scanner's
resolution is generally reported in two planes. A 600x1200 dpi scanner
collects 600 dpi (Dots Per Inch) on the horizontal plane and 1200
vertical. Although scanners actually only collect data at their optical
resolution, the software can interpolate other resolutions, down to a few
bits per pixel or up to tremendously fine detail. The software fills in
the gaps and softens the jagged edges, providing a simulation of higher
resolution. Today's budget scanners offer true scanning resolutions of
about 1200x1200 dpi with software enhancements of 9600 dpi or
higher.
Parallel or
SCSI
I have already
mentioned the SCSI interface in the Hard
Disk Drive section. SCSI scanners are generally scanning a lot faster
and produce a higher true scanning resolution. The benefit of deciding for
a scanner that simply plugs into the parallel port is its much lower
price. Parallel scanners have a slower scanning speed and suffer from
lower quality input. However, you will never be able to get the most out
of a SCSI scanner unless you are producing professional reproductions. For
all us mortals a parallel scanner will do the job as superbly as can be
expected. If you decide for a parallel scanner, you can either plug your
scanner straight into your PC and your printer into the scanner, or you
can opt for a second parallel port. The choice is yours.
Scanning
Tips
Whatever the
capabilities of your scanner are, the input that it can achieve will be a
lot better than the best output quality of your printer. Generally,
scanning at 300 dpi for printing is a good setting for most images and
documents. Even for photographic reproductions, I would never scan at
higher than 600 dpi. The best file format for those sort of scans is .jpg
with 15 to 25 percent compression.
If you are scanning
documents in black and white only, don't scan at a higher than 200 dpi
resolution. Everything above only wastes space.
If you are scanning
images for your Web Site (i.e. for the monitor to be output), scan at 72
to 100 dpi. The resolution of your monitor is only 72 dpi, so keep your
images as small as possible in order for your pages to load
fast.
Text for OCR
(Optical Character Recognition)
will not scan well at low resolutions. Chances are, if you are scanning
text for OCR, you will not keep the original scan anyway, so scan at least
at 300 dpi. The more accurate your scans are, the more accurate the
recognition will be.
Printers
There are lots of
different printer types on the market, so I will probably extend on
printers at a later time, or even give them a section of their own. But
for now, here are just the basics. The Most commonly use types of printers
in a domestic environment are:
-
Ink Jet
Printers
-
Laser
Printers
Dot Matrix printers
are still around, but are now really only used in commercial environments
for invoice and report printing, where quality and speed are not
important.
As the name
implies, inkjet printers use tiny dots of ink to generate the output.
Before making a choice of what printer to go for, there are a variety of
questions you should ask yourself.
For starters, how
important high quality output? Is the printer mend to be for your children
to print their pictures, or do you intend to achieve near photographic
output? These days all printers produce resolutions of at least 360x360
dpi as standard and that kind of resolution will normally do for any kind
of domestic printout. For near photo realistic quality you need at least
720x720 dpi, so watch out for the highest possible resolution that the
printer of your choice can produce.
Speed is another
factor to consider. If you need high speed and/or high volume prints, then
you should not even consider an inkjet printer but opt for a laser jet.
But even inkjets can be quite fast. Some achieve up to eight pages per
minute in grayscale, some need 30 seconds for a single page. All inkjet
printers need a lot longer to print once colour is involved but even there
you have big speed differences.
One of the most
important things to consider is how many cartridges it holds. This is
important for ease of use and for output quality alike. A printer that
takes two cartridges (colour and black) will by default produce much
better results of black prints. Inkjet printers that only take one
cartridge at a time will either not be able to print in colour (when the
black cartridge is inserted) or have to produce the colour black by
heavily mixing its primary colours cyan, yellow and magenta. This will slow down the printing
process and achieve less quality, these type of inkjets are cheaper to
buy. Don't be mislead though, as the individual cartridges can be more
expensive and they don't last as long, making the printer less economical
in the long run. I recommend a printer that takes two cartridges. They're
also easier to use and less troublesome.
It is commonly
known that ink cartridges can be refilled. If you intend to take up the
challenge and get your hands dirty, make sure that the ink you buy matches
the criteria of the ink that your printer uses. Most printers use water
based ink, but Epson printers, for example, use spirit based ink in order
to achieve higher quality output. I won't tell you how to refill your
cartridges, you can read that up in the instructions that come with the
refill pack, but I tell you that much: be careful with that
syringe!
Input/Output Cards
There is not much
to say about Input/Output cards. Typically you shouldn't need to buy an
I/O Card as your motherboard usually supports all necessary devices.
However, if a device on your motherboard fails, you'll need to make this
extra purchase. When talking I/O cards, always think of IDE cards. I/O
cards have brought about the Integrated Drive Electronics standard in the
first place, after which IDE became so popular that is was considered
standard not long after. All Input/Output cards normally
support:
-
two serial
ports
-
one parallel
port
-
one IDE/EIDE
port
-
one floppy drive
port
Chances are you
never need bother with an I/O card though, unless you want to go for
additional ports. Don't be mislead though, the only ports you can make use
of in a working system are the serial ports and the parallel port. All
other ports find their limit defined in the BIOS and can only be enabled
if a device on the motherboard fails and has been disabled.
The Serial and Parallel
Port
From the earliest
beginnings of personal computer systems until now, every computer has at
least two serial ports and one parallel port. AT motherboards provide the
connectors in which the ribbon cables plug it, whereas ATX boards feature
the ports as part of the board.
Serial data
transmission uses a single wire which addresses each BIT of a
transmission sequence individually. The transmission speed is therefore
measures in bits per second (baud). The maximum transmission rate of a
standard RS-232 serial port is 115200 baud. The actual connector in which
you plug your serial device (i.e. modem, comms cable, et.) is a male 9 pin
or 25 pin D-type connector.
Parallel data
transmission works basically just line serial data transmission, but
instead of addressing one BIT at a time, it addresses one BYTE at a time.
As you know, one BYTE has eight BITs, making the data transmission of the
parallel port eight times faster than the serial ports. The maximum
throughput, however, is limited to 512kbps. Parallel ports use a female 25
pin D-type connector.
USB
USB (Universal Serial
Bus) is a newer input/output
specification than serial and parallel, but it does essentially the same
job, only much better. Serial and parallel signals get lost within very
short distances, and daisy chaining only two or three devices can already
cause difficulties and conflicts as each device still wants its own
interrupt. USB allows up to 127 devices to run at the same time on the
bus, with hubs connecting the devices to the bus and all devices happily
sharing one single interrupt. USB also provides a much higher
transfer rates than the traditional RS-232 or
parallel-port devices. The dual-speed data transfer of USB delivers 1.5Mbps at low data transfer rate and
12Mbps at high data transfer rate, and it even can provide a maximum 500mA
of current to devices attached on the bus.
The reason why USB
works in two speed modes are the speeds of the various devices that will use the
standard. Keyboards, mice
and joysticks are among the low speed devices and work happily with
1.5Mbps. Zip drives, scanners and printers are among the high-speed
devices and need throughput rates of up to 12Mbps.
USB is also
designed to meet Microsoft PnP (Plug
and Play)
specification, meaning users can install, and hot-swap devices without
long installation procedures and reboots. Within the next few years USB
will replace the traditional serial and parallel ports.
IEEE 1394 - FireWire
FireWire was
originally developed by Apple as a technology for Local Area Networks, but
it was soon realised that it was much more useful as a digital interface
for connecting PC peripherals. So Apple handed FireWire over to the
Institute of Electrical and Electronical
Engineers (IEEE1394). For a while it was
seen as yet another technology set to enter mainstream computing in order
to replace traditional serial and parallel transmission standards. It
really found it's way into computing only for connecting digital video
devices though. However, the throughput of 400Mbps has potential enough
for it to be reckoned with. For now, FireWire/DV editing is clearly the
future of video. With DV (Digital
Video) you get perfect copies and
perfect video quality. All you need is a FireWire plug in card, but at the
moment they still cost hundreds of pounds and are only aimed at the
professional market or those of you with big pockets. Don't give up on
FireWire though. It's been slow catching on for a few years, but with
proposals before the IEEE to increase throughput to the order of
gigabits per second and increased cable length, it looks as though
IEEE1394 will be the interface of the future.
|
Speed Comparison |
| Maximum Modem
Speed |
56 kb/s |
| Serial Port,
RS232 |
115.2 kb/s |
| Parallel Port |
512 kb/s |
| USB at low data transfer
rate |
1.5 Mb/s |
| USB at high data transfer
rate |
12 Mb/s |
| EIDE, Mode 4 |
133 Mb/s |
| EIDE UDMA /33 |
264 Mb/s |
| Wide SCSI |
320 Mb/s |
| FireWire |
400 Mb/s |
| USB2.0 low |
360 Mb/s* |
| USB2.0 high |
480 Mb/s* |
| Ultra Wide SCSI |
640
Mb/s |
|
*according to latest test
results |
|